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Cognac's Boutique Producers
By: Ron Kapon	<< back   Page 2 of 2

Ron’s favorite boutique producers: Pierre Ferrand, established in 1702 uses only grapes from the Grande Champagne area. They only bottle and ship on order. Alexandre Gabriel and Jean-Dominique Andreu have revitalized the firm, making it the fifth largest selling cognac in the United States. Ferrand Selection des Anges, average age 30 years- $100; Abel, average age 45 years- $200. Under the Gabriel & Andreu label, all single estates- Petite Champagne, average age 25 years- $60; Grande Champagne, average age 35 years- $100.

Kelt Cognac is a newcomer established in 1987 by Olev Kelt. Familiar with the Norwegian aquavit that has its maturation at sea sailing from Norway to the Equator and then back again he built a container that stays on a ship for 90 to 100 days, depending on the weather. Using small barrels and only Grande Champagne grapes the barrels are filled to 70% of capacity so there is ample room for the cognac to wash around inside the barrel. Kelt XO, average age 28 years- $150.

Ragnaud-Sabourin Cognacs began in 1907 and today the house is managed by three ladies, Denise the founder’s wife, Annie her daughter and Patricia the last generation. Ragnaud-Sabourin Grande Champagne Unblended #20- $55; unblended #35- $100 and both are estate bottled.

Begun in the early 1200s family-owned Cognac Pierre Frapin is a rarity. Their 741 acre domain includes 500 acres of prime Grande Champagne vineyard, the largest in this top-rated appellation so they do not turn to outside growers for grapes. Every cognac Frapin releases is estate-bottled. Frapin Chateau de Fontpinot XO Grande Champagne 1er Cru, average age 20 years- $90 (the original Frapin family seat); VIP XO Grande Champagne 1er Cru, average age 28 years- $165.

Tesseron was begun in the 19th century, the great-great grandson of the founder now runs the company (they also own Chateau Pontet Canet & Lafon Rochet in Bordeaux). Lot 29- “Tresor” Grande Champagne, matured more than three generations with 30% from the 1906 vintage & 70% from the 1930’s- $160; Lot 53- “Topaz” Grande Champagne, almost ½ century old- $100.

“Hine makes little but makes it perfect”. Now run by the sixth generation, cousins Bernard and Jacques Hine. Antique XO, average age 23 years is a blend of more than 40 cognacs drawn from the Grande & Petite Champagne districts- $120; Triomphe is all Grand Champagne and aged an average of 45 years- $225.

Delamain produces less than 50,000 cases of Grande Champagne Cognac. Begun in 1824 and they are still a family owned firm that does no blending. In 1920 they launched their standard bearer- Pale Dry XO, average age 25 years- $80; Verspers, average age 35 years- $120; Tres Venerable, average age 55 years- $225.

“Youth,” said Bernard Shaw “is a wonderful thing. What a crime to waste it on children.” I feel the same way about cognac; the older, the better, for me.

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